Spain Train 101: Renfe, Seats, Luggage, and Kids

Spain Train 101: Renfe, Seats, Luggage, and Kids

ByEvan Parker

Spain isn’t just about endless plates of jamón and sunny plazas. If you really want to see the country, you need to get on the rails. Spanish trains, especially the Renfe network, are fast, comfortable, and surprisingly family-friendly—if you know what you’re doing. I’ve spent months zigzagging the Iberian Peninsula with a backpack, a laptop, and, sometimes, a stroller in tow. Here’s what I wish I’d known before booking my first ticket.

Booking Renfe: The Not-So-Simple Basics

Let’s clear something up: booking a Spanish train ticket isn’t always as intuitive as booking a flight. Renfe (the national train service) has a website that’s gotten better, but still occasionally feels like it was designed before Wi-Fi was a thing. That said, you have options:

  • Renfe.com: Direct, sometimes buggy, but usually cheapest. Accepts international cards (mostly), but create an account for smoother payment.
  • Omio: Clean interface, supports PayPal and Apple Pay. You’ll pay a small fee, but it saves time (and nerves).
  • Trainline: Like Omio, but sometimes finds slightly different deals. I use it as a backup.

“The first time I tried to buy a Renfe ticket, my card was declined, then accepted, then I got two tickets for the same train. Lesson: triple-check your confirmation emails.”

Tickets go on sale about 60-90 days out. For popular routes (Madrid–Barcelona, Madrid–Seville), book early for the lowest prices—think €25-€40 in advance, but €80+ if you wait.

Seat Types: What You’re Actually Paying For

Forget economy vs. business. Renfe has its own lingo:

  • Turista: Standard coach. Comfy enough for a nap, outlets at your seat, decent legroom.
  • Turista Plus: Same seat as Preferente, but without a meal. Sometimes only €5-€10 more than Turista.
  • Preferente: Bigger seats, quieter car, meal included on long routes. Worth it for adult travelers if you want to feel fancy for cheap (sometimes €15-€20 more than Turista).
  • Club: Don’t bother unless you’re on an expense account.

For families: Renfe offers a “Mesa” (table) for four. If you’re traveling with kids, this is gold—everyone faces each other with a table in the middle. These go fast, so snag them early.

Luggage Rules: More Generous Than You’d Expect

Here’s where Renfe shines. On most high-speed AVE trains:

  • Three bags per person: Two pieces up to 85x55x35 cm + one small item (e.g., purse, laptop bag).
  • No weight limit (but you should be able to lift your own bag onto the rack).
  • Strollers travel free and don’t count toward your luggage limit. Just fold them before boarding.

Pro tip: There’s space for large suitcases at the end of each car, and smaller bags above your seat. If you’re worried about theft, bring a simple cable lock for peace of mind—but honestly, I’ve never had an issue.

Traveling with Kids: Strollers, Snacks, and Sanity

I get it—traveling with kids can feel like running a triathlon in flip-flops. Spanish trains, though, make it easier than most:

  • Strollers: No extra charge. Fold before boarding (conductors are usually chill if you need a minute).
  • Kids under 4: Travel free if they don’t take a seat. But book a free “child ticket” anyway; staff sometimes check.
  • Kids 4–13: About 40% off adult fares. Select “Niño” when booking.
  • Family Seats: Look for “Mesa” or “Family Area” during seat selection.
  • Bathrooms: Usually clean, often with changing tables. BYO wipes.

Snacks: AVE trains have a café car (sandwiches, coffee, beer), but prices are airport-level. Bring your own food—nobody minds, and you’ll probably be offered a bite by the abuela across the aisle.

“Once, a conductor gave my toddler a sticker book just for sitting quietly. I’ve yet to see that on Amtrak.”

City Connections & Timing: Don’t Miss Your Train

Spain’s high-speed rail is fast—Madrid to Barcelona in 2.5 hours, Madrid to Seville in 2h 45m. But there are a few quirks:

  • Arrive early: Security checks (like airport lite) mean you should get to the station 20-30 minutes ahead.
  • Platform announcements: Usually posted 15-20 minutes before departure. Don’t panic until then.
  • Connections: If you’re changing trains, try to allow at least 30 minutes. Renfe is punctual, but life happens.

Big stations have elevators and ramps, but a little patience helps during rush hour.

Sample Journey: Madrid to Valencia with Kids

Let’s say you want to zip from Madrid to Valencia (great paella, decent beaches). Here’s how it might look:

  1. Book: Renfe.com, search “Madrid-Puerta de Atocha” to “Valencia Joaquín Sorolla.” Pick a “Mesa” seat if possible.
  2. Pack: Two rolling bags, a folded stroller, backpacks. No one checks weight, so don’t sweat it.
  3. Arrive: At least 20 minutes before. Security is minimal, but lines can form.
  4. Onboard: Plug in devices, relax. Café car has bocadillos (meh), so bring snacks. Bathrooms are decent.
  5. Arrive Valencia: Unfold stroller, roll off, follow signs to taxis/metro. If you have a toddler, expect high-fives from Spanish grandparents.

Quick Table: Spain Train Essentials

Feature Details Pro Tip
Booking Renfe, Omio, Trainline Book 60+ days ahead for deals
Seat Types Turista, Turista Plus, Preferente, Mesa “Mesa” = best for families
Luggage 3 bags, stroller free, no weight limit Cable lock for peace of mind
Kids Under 4 free, 4–13 child fare Always book a child ticket
Food Café car, BYO snacks Supermarkets in stations
Connections Major cities 2–3 hours apart Allow 30 min for transfers

Handy Links & Tools

For current schedules, always check the day before—it’s rare, but some routes change for maintenance.

Final Thoughts from the Rails

Traveling Spain by train is genuinely fun, even with a suitcase in one hand and a toddler in the other. The seats are comfy, the scenery’s cinematic, and the whole thing just… works. Once you get the hang of the booking quirks and know which bag goes where, it’s a lot less stressful than flying (and the food is better, if you bring your own).

Just remember: pack light, book early, and bring snacks. You’ll be rolling through Spanish countryside in style—and maybe, just maybe, your kid will nap the whole way.

Some links in this post may be affiliate. You pay the same price; I might earn a small commission that helps keep this blog rolling (pun intended).

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